Bikepacking Baja

By Erin Dunigan

Alenka Vrecek's love affair with Baja began in 1985, during a college road trip that made it as far as Mulege. Back then, the peninsula was a different world. The roads were unpaved. The beaches were deserted and offered pristine campsites. The feeling of wide-open spaces whispered of mystical forces. In her words, “it was magical.”

"That's when I fell in love with Baja," Alenka recalls. "There was a sense of openness, a feeling that there were some sort of mystical forces that were always present.”

A decade later, Baja called to her again. This time, the allure of windsurfing lured her to Los Barriles. It was there that she stumbled upon Las Ventanas, a place that would become a pivotal part of her story. When her youngest child was just three years old, Alenka embarked on a new Baja adventure – loading her three kids into a motorhome and making the trip to La Ventana Bay. The magic reignited, and she soon found herself a property owner, returning each winter to Las Ventanas ever since.

Life, however, took an unexpected turn. A divorce and health issues forced Alenka to confront her own mortality. "I craved something to reignite my spirit, to reconnect the pieces of my life," she says. A dream, harbored for years, resurfaced and took shape - to take a mountain bike trip - across Baja. But she did not want to do it on Mexico 1D where cars, traffic, and narrow shoulders would be a challenge.

Alenka yearned for a more authentic Baja, a glimpse into a disappearing way of life. "Especially in the remote ranchos," she explains, "life hasn't changed much for centuries. That's the magic for me."

In 2017, destiny intervened. She discovered the Baja Divide Trail, a route created and mapped by Nicholas Carmen and Lael Wilcox in 2015.

It was perfect. As a mountain biker, the off-road terrain held immense appeal. But more importantly, the trail promised a journey through the heart of Baja, a chance to witness a side of the peninsula hidden from those who travel by car.

"On a bike, you experience nature and people on a deeper level," Alenka reflects. "There's a more personal connection with your environment, and people are more receptive to you." Throughout her solo journey, she encountered nothing but kindness. Locals offered water, opened their homes, and became her silent guardians.

"Traveling through such remote areas and seeing how people live, maintaining traditions for centuries - that is the magic of the place,” she says.

The Baja Divide Trail is no easy feat. It traverses the peninsula, weaving between the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez multiple times. "Many don't realize Baja has mountains!" Alenka exclaims. "They picture a flat desert. The diversity of flora and fauna across these ranges is truly eye-opening."

Cycling also heightens the connection with nature. It's an intimate experience, one where you feel the full spectrum of the elements. Nights can plunge into the low 30s, while daytime temperatures soar above 100 degrees. "It makes you appreciate how life adapts in such harsh environments," Alenka observes.

The starkness of the landscape is deceptive. Once you become aware of the extremes, a shift in perspective takes place. It's not just barrenness, but the resilience of life that becomes awe-inspiring. At first glance, there may appear to be nothing, but a closer look reveals a tenacious spirit clinging to survival.

"The biggest takeaway for me was the importance of slowing down," Alenka reveals. "To stop, to sit on a rock, and simply look around. At first, you see nothing. But then, as your heart opens, you begin to see so much more."

Baja, she believes, can teach us to see life differently. But this requires slowing down, taking the time to truly experience. "Cycling allowed me to do that, even with the challenges – the scorching heat, the moments of almost running out of water. When you're tested like that, you appreciate life more and witness the resourcefulness that has allowed people and animals to survive for centuries."

Another profound realization came during her journey through the ranchos. Here, survival hinged on connection. It's a stark contrast to the isolating tendencies of modern life.

"It was such a valuable lesson," Alenka says. "I traveled with minimal gear, but the resourcefulness of the people there was remarkable. We have so much to learn from that. We've forgotten how to be resourceful. Often, the abundance that surrounds us blinds us to the simple things in life."

Baja, in all its forms, offers a chance to reconnect with ourselves and what truly matters. "It's one of the most beautiful and diverse places on Earth," Alenka concludes.

While some voiced concerns about her solo adventure, Alenka encountered nothing but kindness. Her one regret? Not allowing herself more time to savor the journey. Personal obligations necessitated a pace that didn’t allow for much lingering. But the yearning to return and delve deeper into these hidden corners burns bright. “I can’t wait to go back into some of those places and share the experiences with my husband.”

Alenka's message is a call to slow down, to truly experience Baja. Get out of the car. Feel the sun on your skin, the wind in your hair. Immerse yourself in the vastness of the landscape and the quiet resilience of its people. There's a Baja waiting to be discovered, and it has something to offer everyone.

Check out Alenka's book, She Rides: Chasing Dreams Across California and Mexico, on Amazon.