 |  |
By David Kier
Maps courtesy of 'The King's Highway in Baja California' by Harry Crosby.
In the Californias, El Camino Real was a road for people and pack animals that connected the missions with each other and was the line of supply and communication for over two hundred years.
A cuesta is a road grade, and on El Camino Real in Baja California it is one that is typically steep with switchbacks cut into the mountainside so pack animals and people could travel up and down the peninsula where mountains would otherwise force long detours.
The Jesuit missionaries who operated the missions from 1697 to the end of 1767 engineered the road network between their missions to a high degree, in the name of the king. The Royal Road of California began in Loreto and radiated out to the missions and visitas (satellite mission outposts) established on the peninsula. These roads can still be seen for hundreds of miles where modern construction or natural erosion has not obliterated them.
Howard Gulick in the 1950s and Harry Crosby in the 1970s documented the Camino Real across much of Baja California. Their notes and maps help us find the ancient ‘highway’ in the twenty-first century, both on land and from space with the satellite map images available.
The Jesuit’s Camino Real usually ran in straight lines for long distances when the terrain permitted. At canyons or mountain passes are when the cuesta switchbacks would be employed to cross those obstacles.
There was often more than one Camino Real between many of the missions. Conditions would force a different route to be used, often for available water sources, or to visit one of the satellite mission stations (visitas) enroute. The most documented route of El Camino Real is the one used by Junípero Serra on his 1769 expedition from Loreto to San Diego Bay.
Two land expeditions set out from Loreto that year. The first was led by Captain Fernando de Rivera and Padre Juan Crespí. Crespí was the missionary at La Purísima until his journey north began in February of 1769 and with Rivera, they traveled to the edge of the Jesuit’s influence which was at Velicatá. Three years earlier, Padre Wenceslao Link had found Velicatá was an excellent site for a mission. The Jesuits were removed from all Spanish territory before they could establish a mission that far north. Crespí and Rivera arrived at Velicatá in March of 1769.
Junípero Serra with Captain Gaspar de Portolá, the newly appointed governor of the Californias, began their journey two months after Crespí and Rivera had started. When Junípero Serra arrived at Velicatá in May of 1769, he concluded it was indeed such an important location that it became his first founded California mission, and he named it San Fernando.
Padre Crespí documented the trail in great detail and that helped modern explorers like Harry Crosby discover the route used for his preparation of the two books, The King’s Highway in Baja California (1974) and Gateway to Alta California (2003).
Creating a trail for mules to bring people and cargo began early for the Jesuits when they expanded from Loreto to their second mission of San Javier. The canyon between the two sites required roadbuilding and at first the soldiers were employed. It didn’t take long for the Spaniards to utilize the large Indian workforce that was available for such tasks and a road was carved into the canyon walls to reach the valley above. That cuesta was near Las Parras, where wild grapes grew. The San Javier mission was first established in 1699 at today’s Rancho Viejo and moved south five miles after about ten years.
Perhaps the next major cuesta is found northbound between La Purísima and Guadalupe missions. Called Cuesta de los Angeles, this grade drops the Camino Real into Arroyo San Raymundo a few miles downstream from the mission visita of San Miguel. The topo map shows a ranch named Piedra de la Cuesta (Stone of the Grade) on the bottom of the grade. According to Harry Crosby’s book, the ranch is called Pie de la Cuesta (Foot of the Grade). GPS at the top of the grade is 26⁰39.825’, -112⁰20.900’ (1,640’). These cuestas and much of the mission road system can be seen on Internet satellite maps.
The next cuesta is north of Mission Guadalupe on the way to San Sebastián and is called El Barranco. 26⁰57.250', -112⁰ 25.090' (3,280’). Before auto roads were constructed in the 1980s, a mule was needed to visit the mission over this trail.
From San Sebastián the mission road passes through El Gato to the Cuesta de San Venancio. 27⁰04.470’, -112⁰28.770’ (3,100’). The trail follows the ridgeline about a mile west before dropping steeply down and passing near La Higuera and coming to La Candelaria. The next steep grade was just beyond Rancho la Candelaria and is known as Cuesta La Candelaria 27⁰ 05.920’, -112⁰ 32.690’ (3,225’) which brought the road onto the plain leading to San Ignacio. The Camino Real continues to San Ignacio, passing by the ranchos of Santa Cruz and San Luis.
The region between the missions of San Ignacio and Santa Gertrudis by far has the greatest number of mission roads that can be seen today. The area is remote and rugged. San Ignacio’s Padre Consag was very ambitious to expand the Jesuit missions to the north and may have initiated the many road construction projects out from San Ignacio. From the air (or satellites in space), one can see many roads radiating out from San Ignacio like spokes of a wagon wheel. There were basically three Jesuit El Camino Reals on the peninsula (Pacifico, Sierra, Golfo) based on the location of them on the peninsula.
A cuesta culebreada (switchback grade) as Harry Crosby called it, is between Arroyo el Infierno and Santa Marta, located at 27⁰29.800’, -112⁰55.830’ (2,600’). Cuesta de Tagualila at 27⁰49.777’, -113⁰01.300’ (1,840’) is where the Camino Real leaves the San Gregorio Plain and Crosby noted that here the old road is very deeply built with loose rock as much as five feet high on each side. Near the bottom of this grade, another branch of the Camino Real is seen as it climbs a short, steep grade. The cut trail is colored white compared to the dark volcanic surface rock. The top of this “Cuesta Blanca” is the small lakebed, Laguna la Tahualina. Both branches come together again several miles to the northwest.
Mission Santa Gertrudis was founded in 1752 at the only water source available for farming and ranching activities as needed for a colony in the desert. The multiple Camino Real roads converge at or near this mission. Heading north for San Borja, we can see a choice of roads available to the people of the time. The primary route is the Sierra Camino Real and heads northwest from Santa Gertrudis, like an arrow shot in as straight a line, as much as the terrain would allow, for nearly half the distance to San Borja. The mountains and the deep canyon of El Paraíso would be the barriers to the mission road alignment.
The Paraíso Canyon was a 1,200’ plunge for El Camino Real that began at 28⁰31.560’, -113⁰38.220’ (3,400’) and then a climb back out 2.3 miles up the canyon, past a ranch that began as a mission farm for San Borja, in the 1760s. Just two miles beyond the north rim of the canyon, El Camino Real comes to Las Cabras where the Spanish first saw snow in California, at an elevation of 4,000 feet.
The final switchback cuesta before reaching Mission San Borja is called El Gentil, named after the plain between it and San Borja. The name Gentiles (along with heathens, pagans, and savages) was used by some of the missionaries and Spanish soldiers to describe the natives before they had become neophytes (baptized members of the mission).
The wonderfully preserved road construction that can be seen for much of the distance north from Loreto comes to an end at San Borja. The Jesuits were removed by force from all of the Spanish New World and replaced in California by the Franciscans, led by Junípero Serra. The short time following the founding of the final Jesuit mission (first at Calamajué then moved to Santa María) and the expulsion did not allow for the typical Jesuit road construction. North of San Borja, El Camino Real resembles not much more than a cattle trail. Some construction can be seen near Mission Santa María made by the Franciscans to facilitate their 1769 construction and development of Santa María and San Fernando de Velicatá.
Find the old Camino Real and if you can, take a walk along it to get a sense of what it was like to travel in Baja California over 250 years ago.
About David
David Kier is a veteran Baja traveler and the co-author of 'The Old Missions of Baja and Alta California: 1697-1834. David Kier’s research on the twenty-seven missions of Baja California was recently published in a new comprehensive book. Visit The Old Missions website for additional information.
Great service, quick response time.
Easiest method of getting Mexican auto insurance. Best rate we found and was setup in no time.
I ALWAYS forget to get insurance on our Mexico trips but Baja Bound makes it so easy- I can do it from my phone in the car on the way and...
Very good ans very fast. We hope all will ben good if we need it.
Baja Bound was recommended to us by a fellow SCORE racer for the Baja 400 in Ensenada. We insured 12 vehicles with multiple drivers and BB...
Good coverage in several categories, with an efficient online purchasing experience and low cost. I felt confident going into Mexico on my...
Easy to use website. We felt so much better having insurance for our family trip to Mexico.
2nd time I have used this company,, first class service and great price.
Easy to get and the price is right
Flawless trip!
Honestly their app is so fantastic and saves all my info I can literally buy the same insurance for my Baja trips in less than 45 seconds...
Third time working with Baja Bound and they made it easy! Thanks!
Had a great experience getting insurance at Baja Bound, before I always stoped at the border to purchase my insurance, not anymore. By the...
I've used Baja Bound for a number of years to insure both cars and motorcycles on trips I've made to Baja and to central Mexico. The...
They make it very easy to get Mexican insurance.
Great policy and easy to get.
Super easy to sign up for insurance for both our Truck and Four Wheel Pop-Up camper. We had no issues while driving south of the boarder......
Yara is very helpful and explains everything. Love working with companies like this.
I've used this company for all my Baja trips. Always super easy and straightforward, and I've never had any issues or problems.
Professional and affordable.
Great insurance! Bought one year but was cured in 2 days on my visit to El Sauzal de Rodriguez next to Ensenada. Not an enjoyable place to...
SIMPLE, STRAIGHTFORWARD. OLD GUYS LIKE THAT. WILL DEFINITELY USE IN 6 MONTHS IF STILL RUNNING AROUND THE WILDS OF BAJA.
Michelle is so efficient and thorough.
Great insurance policy experience for our Mexico travels
A very easy to use website and good selection and rates. In the 10 years I have travelled in Baja, this is the only site I have used.
Very excellent service, needed insurance for Mexico, price was fair. The custumer service rep was Yara
Trip was awesome.
Super easy to get insurance and had no issues whatsoever.
Easy to renew my policy after two years. Good database!
Baja Bound makes insurance for my occasional weekend motorcycle trips to Mexico easy and affordable. I can buy my previously-purchased...
I wish every company was as easy to deal with as Baja Bound. I ended up staying in Baja longer than expected and it took a 3 minute phone...
By far the best service for Mex insurance in Baja. They are personally there for you if you have problems south of the border.
Quick, easy and gr8 pricing .
Easy to use and good peace of mind.
Baja Bound is #1. They make getting Baja Mexico insurance a pleasure.
Went down to TJ June 11 2020 No problems going into TJ but the way back was a ordeal 6 hours in line to get back into the USA but no...
Very knowledgeable and helpful.
I've had Baja Bound insurance for more that ten years now with thousands of miles logged in Baja. Fortunately, I've only had one fender...
Good service, good products...
I called Baja Bound and Rigo from customer service was the most helpful person I've ever spoken to! If you get a chance to speak to Rigo...
Thank God I had a safe trip but it did have me at peace knowing I was fully covered. The staff were friendly and very helpful.
Baja Bound makes buying insurance for going south of the border as easy as it gets. The website is the easiest I have used and the staff...
Getting a policy was simple, Provided more than provider for price comparison.
Easy easy easy... I have my co pilot (wife) set it all up on the drive south to the border. With in minutes we are set to cross the border...
If you’re looking for Mexican Insurance that you can trust and feel good about while traveling in Mexico, you’ve found the right place....
Incredibly fast and painless. Paid about $180 for a month of coverage. It was easier than going on line.
Baja Bound Mexican Insurance has been an excellent insurance company to use when you drive into Mexico. We have used them for the past 6...
very easy to pay and value is cheaper than GNP and ABA and they offer the same protection thank you!!!
Save the hassle of trying to find a Mexican Insurance shop or waiting in line if you do. Baja Bound Mexican insurance on line is quick,...
fast replies and great price!
Very convenient, great price !!
They are very good . There website doesn't show you need a title to bring a vehicle across the border.I was stopped and told I had to...
Baja Bound is the easiest way to set up coverage before you head into Baja. Online, 5-mins, you're done! Simple. I insure my truck and...
I have been a customer for years and when I really needed them they stepped up in every way. I had a freak accident to my car and they...
Excellent
Best Mexican Insurance Service Office, always ready to assist customers....Mrs. Yara, the best....👍👌🤝🤝
My wife and I were in Baja the 1st week of October. Insurance through Baja Bound was quick and easy. Thank you
We were trying to get an insurance for our RV in Mexico, we come from Europe and we drive with Belgium license plates. I tried a lot of...
Mexican Insurance made easy, I have used Baja Bound Mexican Insurance for all most 5 years, price and ease is great, luckily I have never...
Great company. unlike their competitors, Baja Bound answers the phone and you're talking to a real person. Highly reccomend!
Great site to get your insurance from the Baja experts.
Baja Bound made it SO EASY to purchase insurance for our one week trip to Tijuana. I would definitely use them again for future trips and...
I just would like to know if you guys are going to update the fastpass direction any soon, during the month of January the lane changed to...
Great service, very helpful people there.
I purchased insurance through them & CHUBB for our trip to San Felipe. Unfortunately, we had to cancel due to our vehicle having an oil...
so far so good, however I have read good things about them
(Translated by Google) I like the insurance because you can buy it for a day and it assures you in Mexico for the time you go either up to...
Super-easy and instant. Very happy with initial purchase.
Amazing customer service. Very attentive. Definitely will do business with BAJA BOUND in the future. Thanks.
I will never drive south of the border without Baja Bound in my center console. I was in an accident a couple hours south of Ensenada and...
2nd year with Chubb. No problems
Good seevice have use baja bound for many years good price....
No claims but purchase was quick and simple.
It was simple to purchase coverage and feeling that I was protected.
Super easy to purchase just the coverage you need when crossing the border in your own car. I especially appreciate the fact that I was...
Very professional, very helpful, great policy, I couldn't be happier with Baja Mexican Insurance, the friendly smiles and ease of it all in...
Our go to Baja car insurance, everytime we take a visit down south . Usually it's for a day trip either for a quick getaway with the family...
Team were on point, provided inside information, prices were great and they had my proposal already in the system when I called back....
QUICK and EASY! Get your insurance completed within minutes. Also, you are provided with a complete multi page document in English and...
I have not had any claims thus far so rating is based on ease of purchase.
Excellent customer service
2nd time purchasing Bajabound MX insurance while on the road. Super Easy, excellent interactive website via laptop of phone. Quick...
Great, easy to use service. I haven't had to file a claim (and hope I never have to) but the online portal is very easy to use, and it's...
I have used Baja Bound for insurance for many years. Their online process is easy and cost efficient. I have never had to use them for an...
Baja Bound could not have made it an easier ... also, I made a mistake and called them having to leave a message ... but, they called back...
So convenient and easy to navigate thru the online process. I'll never use any other Mexican insurance service!
Signing up for policies is super easy. Never had a claim and hope I don't have to. But the service and process was fast and good.
Very easy to buy Mexican insurance 👌
Easy to obtain, good quality, auto insurance for Mexico.
Very easy process to purchase online. Very reasonable rates. Lots of good insight and helpful information on their website. My wife...
Great company and they use CHUBB which is a top notch insurance company.We got our policy online 30min before crossing the border and were...
Easy and fast in less than 10 minutes you could have insurance for Mexico. I have used them for about 8 years already.
Extremely well designed website and a smooth experience! Would recommend to anyone looking for US - Mexico insurance!
Great service, whoever answered my call was very helpful. First time using Baja Bound and I was expressed with the service. We'll see in...
I have been using BajaBound Insurance for 15 years - multiple trips per year. Their website is easy, their coverage is great, and the...
Great company, great prices, and even better customer service. We've lived in Baja for 7 years and have used them for the past 6years....
I recently purchased insurance for my trip with Baja Bound because of their reputation and reviews. Easy enough to purchase and print...
Excellent service! Michelle made it so easy for me to purchase a 6 month mexican policy for all of Mexico. A couple quick back and forth...
Easy to buy Mexico car insurance from and good service
Easy, quick and fair prices. Easy to deal with if needed.
We use them every time we travel to Mexico. Luckily we have not needed their services yet but getting insurance through them is quick and...
Convenient, great website, prices are reasonable.
I absolutely love this company and site! We travel frequently between Arizona and Puerto Penaso, thus I have used the company multiple...
Excellent online and by direct phone. Spanish and English with proven response to questions. Website is very informative about driving in...
Great coverage options . Price buy and print policy , very quick and easy , highly recommend them when driving in Mexico
Changed some money. Good rate and friendly people.
I have been very impressed with the help I received from the insurance. I have used them for years and never needed their help. This time...
Best insurance I've had so far
Reasonable prices and we thought best chance to actually get results if we needed them.
I have used Baja Bound for years. Very easy and affordable.
Took just a few minutes on line. Easy even for a 75 year old
Baja Bound Insurance has gone above and beyond for me in their customer care. I was a pain as a customer, bought the wrong insurance, had...
Super simple, inexpensive, easy to work with, amicable and great communication
Super easy I just entered my info on line paid $60 for 5 days of coverage and the policy was emailed to me. I never had to use it...
Have used different times with different vehicles and each time was very simple - each time we have had to use extra days and was made...
Very easy, quick, and professional
Good and clean place.
Used them for the first time - twice in the past 10 days. LOVED how easy it was to customize my own policy right at my desk, print up the...
This is an update to my previous review. Baja Bound, unbidden on my part, reached out to me to assist. They coordinated a contact with...
Great renewal process, if only south Dakota would do the same for car registration.
Michelle L. is the best Client Care Specialist! I originally purchased a policy a few months ago when we moved to Mexico. Then, my car...
Day, night, while they are on vacation. Anytime. They are the best most helpful insurance companies on either side of the border!!! THE...
I had questions while submitting for Insurance on line so I called them. The customer service agent was exceptional on helping me to get...
Been going to baja for 45 years. This is best insurance company i have come accross.
Fast and easy!
Great insurance for your motor trip to Mexico.
I reapplied for my Baja Bound Mexican car Insurance yesterday and I spoke to Ms. Shauna. This lady processed my application quickly and...
Quick, easy, well designed website and not just for Baja. Good rates for temporal residente gringos. We’re now living in Jalisco. Printed...
Baja Bound is and has been my go to Mexico insurance company. The website is extremely easy to use, keeps all your info for a quick...
I'm listening to the audiobook of God and Mr. Gomez at this very minute. One of my favorite books. Reading this article was sad but...
Where do i start..... you dont know you have good insurance until you have to actually use it. I have had Baja Bound INS for over 5 years...
Easy and affordable.
Purchasing process was easy. First time I have bought Mexican insurance online. Before I would stop somewhere in San Diego close to the...
Was planning to go to Mexico, but unfortunately my bike broke down. Got very friendly and fast service from Rigo. A full refund within back...
Shauna at Baja Bound was AWESOME!! We had specific questions about how to quote the policy based on our vehicle type and she was super...
Great customer service, quick, friendly staff helpfully answered all questions, very patient with my learning curve on a new product. Would...
Easy to work with 😉. Always courteous and helpful. Have used them for all trips to Mexico. Easy website to navigate
Best Claim Service. Staff went out of their way to resolve and settle an accident claim for me. I recommend Baja Bound having used them for...
Easy to buy! I didn’t have to use it, so no clue on that front
I had an awesome experience with Baja Bound. Family owned and highly personal, top notch customer service. I have total peace of mind...
Easy to renew, offers the best coverage for me to feel comfortable while driving in Mexico.
Great service and prices!
Easy insurance for peace of mind
Quick easy to navigate website
Thank goodness never had to use this. Great interactive website to huy.
Wonderful customer service, they made it easy to get my motorcycle insured for a last minute trip into Mexico. Explained the coverage with...
Buying insurance on line is the most efficient way to go.
Great service, EZ and reasonbably priced. Been using Baja Bound for many years now. Great company and people!
Easiest way to purchase insurance when traveling to Mexico. I have used their service for the last 7 years and it only gets easier and...
Rigo at the office has been so supportive and awesome, both on e-mail and by telephone. He helped me figure out details of my trip, sort...
This company is the best 👌
If you are going to Mexico Baja Bound is excellent. Buy online, good price, good quality. Fast and efficient.
Anytime we cross the border, I go to BAJA BOUND and purchased insurance online. It’s easy and the website is thorough in explaining what...
Only place to get insurance 👍
(Translated by Google) Hello, excellent service, fast. I don't waste time waiting anywhere else... I'll do it. In line when I go on the...
Great service!
Extremely easy to acquire a policy. Many options available. Reasonable rates.
Baja Bound Mexico Insurance provided great assistance during our drive into Hermosillo Son. last December 2021. We were victims of...
SERIOUS.
Easy, fast, and affordable.
